Opener dead, clicking, or reversing on its own
Half of the opener calls we take are not broken openers. They are dead remote batteries, misaligned safety sensors, a pulled emergency release cord, or a force setting that drifted out of range over a cold week. We will tell you which one you have. And we will not sell you an opener you don't need.
Is the door safe to use right now?
Usually yes, with one condition: if the door reverses on its own, the safety system is doing its job. Do not disable the photo-eyes or hold the wall button to force it closed. That override exists for emergencies, not for daily use, and a door closing with its sensors bypassed is the scenario the sensors were legislated to prevent. If the opener is simply dead, you can pull the red emergency release and operate the door by hand safely, as long as the springs are intact and the door feels balanced. Roughly 10 lb of effort to lift.
Does this sound like your door?
- Nothing happens at all: no lights, no sound, no motor
- The motor runs but the door doesn't move (stripped gear or disengaged trolley)
- The door starts down, then reverses back up on its own
- The wall button works but the remote doesn't, or vice versa
- A steady or blinking LED on the motor unit. That is a diagnostic code, and it tells us a lot
- Loud grinding from the motor housing, or a rattling chain
Before you call, and where to stop
Two things worth trying before you call: replace the remote battery, and wipe the two photo-eye lenses near the floor and check that both LEDs are steady, not blinking. Between them, those fix a real share of opener calls at zero cost. Anything past that. Gear replacement, force calibration, logic board. Needs the unit opened, and that is our job.
What it costs
Firm price quoted at your door, before any work. Call for today's number.
Opener repair
Sensor realignment, force and travel recalibration, gear kits, logic boards, wall consoles, remote reprogramming. If a $15 battery fixes it, that is what you pay for.
- Full diagnostic including the unit's own LED codes
- Safety reversal test to CSA/UL standard
- Parts quoted before installation
Opener replacement (supplied & installed)
Belt-drive and wall-mount units from LiftMaster, Chamberlain and Genie. Range covers a basic chain-drive at the low end through a quiet wall-mount with battery backup and Wi-Fi at the top.
- Unit, rail, remotes and keypad
- Removal and disposal of the old opener
- Wi-Fi pairing and app setup at no extra charge
Sounds like your door?
Call now and describe it to a technician in ninety seconds. You'll get an arrival window on the spot.
Fair questions
Repair or replace?
Rule of thumb: under 10 years old with a good motor, repair. Over 15 years, or a stripped main gear on a chain-drive from the 1990s, replace. Parts get scarce and you will be back. Between 10 and 15 it depends on what failed; we quote both options on site and let you pick.
My remote stopped working but the wall button is fine.
That is a remote or receiver problem, not an opener failure. Battery first, then reprogramming, then the receiver antenna. Often a 10-minute fix.
The door reverses right before it closes.
Either the photo-eyes are misaligned or dirty, or the close-force setting is too low for a door that has gotten heavier. Ice, a swollen wood section, or dry rollers. Both are adjustments, not replacements.
Do you work on smart openers?
Yes. LiftMaster myQ, Chamberlain, Genie Aladdin and the rest. Wi-Fi pairing and app setup are included in an install; we do not charge separately for getting the app working.
Not quite your problem?
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Where we fix this
Door stuck right now?
We answer from 8 a.m. to 1 a.m., 7 days a week. Emergencies go to the front of the queue, and you get a firm arrival time on the call.
Open 8 a.m. to 1 a.m., every day · 514-224-7693